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Across my table in the last month
What Wine Director Peter Mitchell is drinking this month
“As May arrives with its run of bank holidays and the promise of longer, lazier afternoons, my focus naturally shifts to wines that are as easy to enjoy as they are to share, bottles for spontaneous gatherings, impromptu lunches, and those moments when one glass quietly becomes another in good company.
There is a gentle coastal thread running through the whites this month. The Etna Bianco from Terra Costantino offers a mineral, volcanic edge, with a smoky generosity that makes it just as appealing on its own. From further afield, the Fire Gully Chardonnay from Margaret River shows how richness and freshness can sit beautifully together, a benchmark style at a remarkably approachable price.
Rosé, of course, comes into its own at this time of year, and Domaine Gavoty’s Cuvée Clarendon is exactly the kind of bottle that reminds you why Provence set the standard, textured, vibrant and built for the table as much as the glass.
For reds, I have leaned into versatility. The FRAM Cinsault, from old South African bush vines, is full of juicy red fruit and a touch of spice, and is particularly enjoyable with a light chill, while the 2021 Chianti Classico from Casaloste offers something a little more structured, its bright cherry fruit and freshness making it a perfect companion to spring dishes.
"Whether you are planning a long weekend lunch or simply looking for bottles that will suit almost any occasion, I hope these wines bring plenty of pleasure to the table.”
- Peter Mitchell, MW
Maragret River is home to some of the world’s greatest Cabernet and Chardonnay, with its maritime climate giving wines of richness and elegance not unlike those of fine white burgundy. Fire Gully is a small vineyard that neighbours Moss Wood and is the back garden of Pierro owner and winemaker Mike Peterkin. The Chardonnay from here is made alongside the Pierro estate wine and with such pedigree it is not surprising this is a great wine, what is surprising is the price at less than a half of most top Margaret River Chardonnays – no wonder it is my ‘house’ Chardonnay.
Etna wines were almost unheard of in the UK just 25 years ago, but in a short space have risen to be some of Italy’s most revered and appreciated amongst aficionados. The whites are made from the Carricante grape that, on these sun-kissed volcanic soils, achieves greatness. With a mineral rich structure akin to top Chablis, but with more generosity of smoky fruit, this is a region that all wine lovers should explore.
Cinsault is not often seen as a single variety wine, more often used in French blends to add fruitiness and some spice and more significantly as the backbone of most Provence rosé. South Africa is blessed with old Cinsault bush vines that were for years neglected however recent years have seen some top winemakers realising the potential of these ancient vines. The FRAM wine has a gorgeous blend of juicy strawberry fruits, a touch of black pepper and smooth tannins, giving a wine of good body that partners grilled meats beautifully, but unusually can also be lightly chilled.
As summer hoves into view, thoughts turn to garden lunches and rosé. The world is awash with heavily branded Provence rosé and those seeking to copy it, but for me I always return to this, a beautiful hand-crafted domaine wine, blessed with exceptional texture and a real kick of fruit. Gavoty has been in the family for well over 2 centuries and has been farmed organically for the last 50 years with the top cuvée Clarendon featuring at many of France’s top Michelin starred restaurants. If it is quality rather than labels you seek, then look no further.
We have followed the wines from this small organic estate for over 20 years now and the quality just gets better and better. 2021 is a landmark vintage for the region, with wines of unusual intensity and superb balance and this chianti is just coming into its own, with classic sour cherry fruit, a hint of spice and glorious acidity. This remains one of my favourite Tuscan addresses for both quality and value and is a must for sangiovese lovers.
